I’m in love with George. You know that feeling, when you want to be with someone all the time, feel a bit bereft without them……….that’s how I feel about George. Let me be plain: George is the name I’ve decided to christen my big, strong, reliable campervan.
As George, Toby and I set off on another trip, I feel my spirits soar. I get such a feeling of freedom. And a touch of adventure: somewhere new is always a bit of an adventure. It may not be the adventure of my MSF days, when I’d be heading off to the back of beyond in the Central African Republic during a civil war, but still…….The north Norfolk coast is new to me and waiting to be explored.
I base myself in a campsite in Burnham Deepdale, found on the internet. The location looks good, offers good facilities – with a café for a good coffee in the morning just round the corner. It turns out to be a bit crowded, the pitches very close to one another compared to the few I’ve stayed in before; but the facilities are excellent, very clean with large private cubicles for shower, loo and washbasin.
The best part of the campsite is its location, within walking distance of the long distance footpaths of Peddars Way and the Norfolk Coast path, which cross the unique and magical landscape of the salt marshes to the glorious coastline. Soon Toby is tearing flat out down a nearby beach, Brancaster: wide, long, sandy, quiet in the first week of September. There’s an excellent bus service all along this coastline, so I don’t even need to take George but get dropped off beside the lane that leads to the beach. There’s another long and sandy beach the next day – Hunstanton - mainly for the pleasure of watching Toby sprinting along it. I’ve joined up with a friend for this walk, and without realising it a circular walk clocks up 10km!!
A path above the salt marshes at Burnham Overy Staithe leads across the dunes, through long marram grass, to an even lovelier beach. The tide is high on the way out, and the creeks that run through the marshes are full of small dinghies and paddleboards wending their way seawards. A climb up and over the sand dunes and you’re on another long, sandy, virtually empty stretch of beach. The weather is amazing for early September, the sky and sea blue, the water warm enough for some hardy souls to be swimming. But we walk back to the harbour because I’m looking forward to a coffee from a pop-up stand I’ve spotted. An enterprising couple, Sandy and Dave, have started up the Norfolk Coffee Pedlar, a bicycle-powered full-blown espresso machine on the move. I enjoy an excellent flat white out of a handmade pottery mug, sitting on a bench above the harbour, watching the boats go by. Glorious. I keep Toby quiet by feeding him bits of the homemade Victoria sponge I’ve also bought from the Norfolk coffee pedlar.
The evening brings a lovely surprise: reviews of the White Horse Inn in Brancaster promised a drink in their marquee, watching the sun setting over the salt marshes. Dog friendly as well. So off we went – and got more than we bargained for. Too late for the sun set, but not too late for skeins of geese crying their way back across the salt marshes to wherever they were going to spend the night.
The popular marquee looks very full. But - “Yes, of course she can join our table,” says a friendly couple – with three dogs along. And thus begins an unexpectedly fun evening. Not only great conversation with this lovely couple, but also Nelson’s Shantymen had us all jogging around in our seats.
Striking up conversations with interesting strangers is one of the advantages I’ve found of travelling on one’s own (OK, Toby, with you as well…..). People seem to make a lot of my camper-vanning on my own. But so far I’ve had no real problems; and whenever I’ve needed a bit of help, there’s usually someone around who is willing to help! Campsites are full of friendly people.
The weather on the day I’m heading home is so perfect (in spite of dire forecasts of lightening and downpours) that I slip an extra trip – to the beautiful nature reserve of Holkham. This unique area, with its variety of different habitats from marshland to shady pine forests and sand dunes, is a place to breathe deep and catch your breath, and look out for all the wildlife. As the breeding season of the ground-nesting birds – oyster catchers, ringed plovers – was over, Toby was allowed to run free and enjoy the miles of sandy beach as much as I did.
So we’re both tired but relaxed as we head for home, full of sea air and memories of huge skies, beaches and mysterious marshland.
PS I was intrigued by the name Staithe, as in Burnham Overy Staithe, Brancaster Staithe, so checked it out. For those of you who are also curious: it’s an Old English word from the north and east of England, meaning landing place for loading or unloading cargo boats. So now we know.
TRAVELS WITH TOBY
We loved meeting you too - a very happy table share and we look forward to following your adventures with George x.
I must try to go to the site you mentioned. Sounds super. I am also a female vanner. Love your Portuguese tales